Luminous quartz deposits can be seen from the sky and starry nights give a special glow to the earth below. Modern times mix with the mysteries of long ago in Brazil’s savanna heartland, the Central Plateau.

Capital Brasília, with its daring city layout and striking architecture, contrasts with sleepy colonial towns like trendy Pirenopolis and lovely old Goias, a World Heritage Site. Both towns stage beautiful religious festivals. Pirenopolis is also a center for permaculture and sustainable living.

All this against a backdrop of grand “cerrado” landscapes: big skies, ancient plateaus and symphonies of flowers. The Central Plateau is also the watershed for many of Brazil’s mighty rivers: waters from the savanna go north to the Amazon, northeast to the San Francisco and southeast.

North of Brasilia lies the Chapada dos Veadeiros, where scenery changes from lunar landscapes, gnarled forests to rocky flowered fields. There are always waterfalls and pools to cool off. Close to Pirenopolis there is a state park and two private reserves. Further off the beaten track to the north is Terra Ronca with its many caves and to the east the magnificent Grande Sertão Veredas.

This is a great land for the active traveler, birdwatcher and botanist. Relax afterwards dining on the fruits of the land and soaking in the magical atmosphere as night falls or the day breaks.