In the Southwest Amazon, the forest grows over the Brazilian Shield and the headwaters of some of its main rivers are outside the rainforest: their source is in the Cerrado. This is the “soft underbelly” of the Amazon: a large part of this area is threatened by Brazil’s advancing agricultural frontiers. But conservationists are working hard to establish protected corridors in this area which is both diverse in landscapes and species.

Cristalino has become a mecca for birdwatchers because of a combination of protected areas a very good lodge (with canopy tower and good trails) and a birdlist that now tops 550. The opportunities for soft adventure and fauna observation are also excellent.

The Guaporé river nearly connects the Pantanal with the Amazon. A mosaic of conservation units (and ecosystems) on both sides of the river form an ecological corridor of 23 million ha. This area has some nice lodges and community tourism.

The region is also a place to witness the results of the struggles and dreams “to conquer the Amazon”, which includes escaped slaves, Caribbean workers, rubber tappers and persecuted indians. Visit colonial outposts like Vila Bela de Santissima Trindade, the Principe da Beira Fort or follow the tracks of the infamous Madeira-Mamoré railroad into the jungle to find rusty locomotives that were only used a short time.

Though you can get to many places by road, distances are large and if you have little time, flying is recommended.