Colonial Camamu (f. 1560), once the capital of manioc flour production, oversees the third largest bay in Brazil. From its small, but busy, port boats set out to small towns tucked away in the mangrovelined bay like Cajaiba, with its old style shipyard or to Barra Grande at the tip of the Maraú peninsula, the regions main tourism center. Taipus de Fora, one of Brazil’s top beaches with an enormous natural reef pool, is just of the many tranquil beaches you can explore from here.

To the south of the peninsula lie the “chocolate forests”. Exuberant fragments of tall Atlantic Rainforest in this region are still standing because of the “cabruca” (rainforest shade growing) system for cocoa. “White gold” for more than a 100 years enriched the region, until the “witches broom” fungus struck and sunk the local economy.

Local organizations such as IESB and Floresta Viva are now fighting hard to save the remaining forest fragments in this record plant biodiversity region, which is a last refuge for rare flora, birds and mammals. New conservation areas have been created such as the Serra do Conduru, Itacaré Park Road and private reserves such as the Una EcoParque and Serra do Teimoso.

Sleepy Itacaré, at the mouth of the Rio das Contas, with its many secluded and forested beach coves, good surf, charming inns and mini-resorts can be reached in an hour along a specially constructed park road. The Serra do Conduru with its rich rainforest and waterfalls is close by.

Gateway to the Cocoa Coast is Ilheus, the colonial town where Jorge Amado grew up and the inspiration for four of his wonderful books. Wander around the old centre and enjoy the local atmosphere and visit the Cocoa research centre (CEPLAC), which has a large forest reserve. Several cocoa plantations in the region are open to visitors.